After one year as the new creative director, what has Gucci become?

On May 14th, Italian luxury brand Gucci held its 2025 early spring collection launch event at the Tate Gallery in London. This is the first time creative director Sabato De Sarno has hosted a show outside of Milan Fashion Week’s schedule since taking office in 2023.

After two press conferences in spring/summer and autumn/winter of 2024, Sabato De Sarno has established a design style – a more streamlined silhouette, purer colors, and simpler details. Along with it, there are fewer styles on each show.

But perhaps because it was a holiday show, Sabato De Sarno did not follow the common rainy weather in London to create another cool and efficient series. Instead, he brought the soft and relaxed tones of southern Italy to the show.

The white shirt, lace skirt, lace jacket, and lace pants have a soft and sexy characteristic. The trench coat adorned with tassels is paired with lemon green, while another strapless skirt covered with tassels presents a gradient effect from pink to lemon green from top to bottom. A series of flowing sheer pleated long dresses will appear at the end of the fashion show, and it is foreseeable that they will become the choice of many celebrities on the red carpet in the future.

Why did Sabato De Sarno choose London as the venue for his first vacation show since taking office? One reason is that Guccio Gucci founded the brand in London 102 years ago. He used to be a doorman at the Savoy Hotel in London, and his experience of serving the wealthy gave him the inspiration to establish a luggage brand.

Since Sabato De Sarno took office, the “Gucci Ankara Red” that has been frequently seen in ready to wear, advertising, and pop-up events first appeared in the decoration of the elevator at the Savoy Hotel. In the process of transformation, Gucci has invested more energy and funds in sorting out and emphasizing its brand history in recent years.

In the 2022 autumn/winter collection created by former creative director Alessandro Michele to celebrate Gucci’s 100th anniversary, clothing inspired by past creative directors Tom Ford and Frida Giannini appeared. In 2023, Gucci will make Shanghai the first stop for the “Universal Gucci” collection exhibition.

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