Gucci held a spectacular fashion show tour at the Tate Museum of Modern Art, filling this gap. Although the crowd outside may be screaming for Lee Know of Stray Kids, seeing Kate Moss and Alexa Chung sitting down in Tate’s basement made us feel like we had a dream back to the fashion industry’s pre Brexit paradise in London. The last time Gucci held a fashion show in London was in 2016, 21 days before the decisive national referendum decided to leave the European Union. Sabato De Sarno said at the press conference that he chose to hold a fashion show here because of his personal experience of tolerance and openness towards London: “I am grateful to this city, it welcomes and listens to me.” This narrative was further strengthened, as the young Guccio Gucci worked as a bellboy at the Savoy Hotel in 1899 and was inspired to founded the company. Similar to London after Brexit, The Gucci brand of De Sarno’s predecessor has been in a slump. It was not until recently that the first collection of new designers received widespread retail promotion worldwide, and now Gucci’s global storefront renovation work has been completed. Tonight, De Sarno returned to Gucci’s creative origin city and showcased his expansion of the creative canvas. The question is, will he be welcomed and listened to again in London? The opening stage reflects Gucci’s neatness well, and the Tuscan princess relaxed a bit in London.
Mix washed denim jeans are worn under De Sarno’s strictly customized coat (a canvas coat with a spur belt, a double breasted jacket), made less formal with a beer matte calf leather fabric. A flowing and delicate bow tie shirt falls from the collar. Almost all runway shoes are flat bottomed, including Mahlebit ballet shoes with mesh rubber soles and the elevated brothel shoes with branded metal foot studs we see on men’s fashion shows: Liberation. Just as those brothel shoes have continued from the men’s fashion show to the women’s fashion show, jeans, trendy cotton work clothes, and oversized leather jackets all look promising candidates for the 2025 spring revival in Milan next month. In other places, the high necked rusted leather short coat plays the main role in a series of designs consisting of three almost pink tones, also defined by a duet of skirts and coordinated handbags/shopping bags. By weaving a ball of hanging beads or chamomile flowers on jeans with gradient bead embroidery, complexity and decoration are integrated into the collection. These flowers later became the full body patterns for subsequent designs. In the ventilation of a skirt, you can see that the patterns on the external black background are also reflected on the lining, which is an equivalent yellow organic yarn that has also been treated. The checkered pattern becomes blurred with more hand applied hanging beads and rivets. At the end, De Sarno’s version of Mina’s longing violin piece “Ancora” and Debbie Harry’s “Glass of the Heart” in “ooh,”, Mix “ooh, ooh, ooh” together. This is not only to emphasize the resurrected Blondie package (which Harry saw in the audience), but also to signal the expansion of the designer’s initial rigorous technology in the universe.
